Republic of Ireland, Aug 6 to Aug 15, 2023

Journey day!  We traveled back to Chester train station (where avid readers learned that UK train’s lost- and-found is magic, I recovered our lost violin right before boarding the train, phew!).   Train west to Holyhead, the port for the Irish ferry to Dublin.  The giant car ferry arrived and we hopped on the bus that takes pedestrians to the ferry and felt oh so smug as the bus bypassed all the cars lined up; we talked onto the multiple-level vessel that was more mini-cruise than ferry boat and had our absolute pick of the seats!  We followed signs to “kid zone” which sounded really good and arrived in a carpeted area with plush side seats, air hockey, screens for movies, and sort-of a Gymboree play area where kids took off socks and go absolutely mad! Oh, heaven!  Then… as it filled in, and the sounds got higher and louder and the light scent of kid-feet got a bit stronger… we altered our assessment.. we were not in heaven but in the lite-cruise-vessel-version-of-Hades!  We quickly scoped out other seats in the rapidly filling up ship and managed to grab less-plush but serviceable seats in the not-kid-zone.  Phew! We passed the ~3 hour trip with our kids largely discontent, disliking the coin-eating air hockey, the food, one another, etc. 

Loving train life, headed to the edge of Wales, Holyhead, to catch the ferry to Ireland.

Grooming each other as we wait to board Irish Ferries. 

Yeah! We're on a ferry!

How many laps do you think I can do on this ferry, Alex?

When will this ferry trip be over?

Ahh, but we arrived in lovely, grey Dublin intact!  W
e hopped on a bus that took us from the industrial port to the edge of the city and decided we could walk the… 40 min or so distance to our hotel rooms.  Of course, it started to rain and we had to take shelter halfway there.. luckily, we were under trees for 15 or so minutes, across from a maternity hospital that seemed to play some sort of chimes occasionally. We guessed the chimes meant a baby was born safely which was a nice thought.. in the rain with our bags.  We eventually made it to our nice hotel rooms; we made a boys’ room and a girls’ room and barely unpacked for our two-night stay.  Yeah, and the violin was still with us, success!

  
Welcome to Dublin! Fun, 40 minute walk in the (light) rain. 

We only had one full day in Dublin (lodging was too far above our trip’s nightly-average target price), so decided this would be the right time to do a hop-on-hop off bus and we got tickets to the Book of Kells and library at Trinity College. The bus was great!... sort of.. top deck was totally open and what began as a nice breeze became a whipping wind as the tour continued.  Alex and Luke’s soccer shorts “trip uniform” did not quite get the job done. Kudos to A&L; and they never complained, but just sat there and turned blue. We “hopped off” the bus in the giant, Phoenix Park for some get-warmer, park play. Lovely!  We walked back to the bus stop to catch the next bus, thinking we’d timed it pretty well (they come every 30 min) only to wait for.. 30..35..40.... minutes.  Boo. Not fun to hop off if you can’t readily hop back on!    The audio tour was interesting and we managed to stay warm on the second bus.  Sadly though, the long wait and road traffic on the tour meant that we didn’t have enough time to visit the Epic Irish Emigration museum which looked super interesting (you will learn a whole lot about Irish emigration if you visit Ireland, after the potato famine in the mid-1800s, 40% of Irish-born people lived outside of Ireland; 36M Americans claim Irish as their primary ethnicity, and 80M people world-wide make the same claim).  Oh well we thought, we’ll go to the emigration museum in Cobh (spoiler, the Cobh museum was not a good replacement, boo.).

Katie and Scott on the beloved Ha'penny Bridge (built1816, charge to cross was half a penny) and Luke in front of the Spire of Dublin (390 ft. in height, intended for 2000, though detractors delayed construction through appeals to try to reduce the height). 


Luke turning about for a quick snap and me on the (brrrr) hop-off-maybe-hop-back-on bus. Official residence of the President of Ireland (currently, Michael Higgins) in the far background of the photo. 

Ahh, but the Trinity College and Book of Kells visit was well-worth our scarce time!  First, visiting college campuses is (almost) always very enjoyable – It is fun to talk about college with the kids and of course the spaces are so walkable and usually feature interesting architecture and manicured quads.  The Book is a beautifully written and illustrated manuscript of the four Gospels, written in Latin. It is what’s called an illuminated manuscript, meticulously scripted by young monks with incredibly good eyesight and steady hands around 800A.D., on calf velum.  OK, I thought upon reading the description, it’s a very old book…  Ahh, but this is where museum curators can shine!  The caretakers of the Book created a great experience; the timed tickets, the app-audio tour for the adults, and very well-done kids-activity allowed Scott and I to learn about the time, place, and manner that the Book was written while our kiddos were happily and actively engaged in their (educational and interesting) activities related to the Book. Once we were property hyped up on the info (how many calf-skins are in the 340 velum pages? what material did they have to make the purple versus the yellow pigments?) we entered the chamber and saw The Book.

The tour continues into the Long Room, an incredible library – Most college libraries are impressive, but this room was breathtaking.  We lingered a while; among the items in the 200,000 volume library are artifacts from Ireland’s early political history like the 1916 Proclamation which was read at the start of the Easter Rising that ended with Ireland’s independence in 1922.  The library also contains the oldest harp in Ireland and tributes to philosophers and writers.  I am not doing it justice, but it was just open-mouthed, inspiring… 

Hello Trinity College! 

Left: Luke looking at the different lettering types in the Book of Kells; Right: Luke and Katie searching a blown up Kells-page for their learning activity.  

Our first glimpse of the Long Room. 

Selfie in the Long Hall - Seriously, the photos cannot capture the space. 

Katie longing to touch that oldest harp in Ireland.

Luke, doing what you are supposed to do in the Long Hall (pen and paper-work!). 

Scott had work, so we found a burrito place for dinner and after dinner Scott and I managed to make it to a pub for a short outing while the kiddos played on their computers in the hotel room.

The next day, we traveled to Cork via train which was an excellent day of traveling – We took a cab from our hotel to the Dublin train station (didn’t have enough time to figure out the Dublin busses) – Our cab driver was maybe Russian (he didn’t say and we didn’t ask) and he was chatty and had good advice on places to go (go to the Gap in Killarney park, take a horse! It’s an amazing sight!) The train was great, easy, comfortable, and we took cabs to our lodging in Cork (see Scott’s post, he had an excellent cab driver 😊). 

Ahh, it’s exciting to arrive in a new place and assess how comfortable we’ll be. We booked at University at Cork, we had a three-bedroom suite, it was so… college!  Three bedrooms+three bathrooms and a living room/kitchen.  This was a luxury of bedrooms and bathrooms, only issues we had were: kind of not great wifi (for a university, c’mon) and each bedroom had a “double bed” but they were some kind of smaller kinds of doubles (my theory is they discourage uni kids from “doubling up” too often 😊). 

We had a nice town-walkabout on day 1; repeat readers will be glad to hear that we had several excellent parks nearby and only encountered very nice kids in these parks. We walked to town and visited St. Ann Shandon church (where you can climb to the bell tower, don ear protection, and ring songs on the bells (much to the neighborhood’s delight, I am sure). We took in the excellent view, made a racket, and walked past the Butter Museum. I looked into renting a car while Scott and the kids checked out the nice pedestrian walking, street corner musicians, and English food market (similar to Burrows in London, a whole lot of food stalls and a whole lot of people). In the evening, each of the kids took turns on the violin (Luke is starting at the beginning, since he can’t practice piano). And oh, I stood for a few minutes in the quad down below our 3rd story window and listened to the music waft down and I was just so delighted all over again that we had reunited with that violin in Wales!

I rented our car from Great Island rentals, a real family place, Dee, the woman at the single desk took all my information down on paper and placed it into a stack of other paper-based rentals and entertained me with stories of customers who.. stole rental cars (ah, she was a hoot) while her co worker drove the car from.. a long way away. They brought me the car and told me all about the ongoing road construction (“has been going on for a year and they say two years more!”) which is so lovely and familiar to hear the usual complaints of road work (“they didn’t think about the building cellars under the road before they started digging’! Bloody hell!”). We finished up at Crawford Art Museum (some risqué modern art and classical sculpture copies and a huge, open floor called the Wiggle room where the kids enjoyed doing some sketching on their own) and the big park ( ).  I picked up the car and drove all by myself back to the apt (good job me😊).

These cool kids are doing their walk about Cork on our first day in town. 

How college dorm room size small "double" bed that we squeezed into for a week.

Ringing the bells, at St. Ann's church in Cork. .

From the top of St. Ann's. 

And from the front of St. Ann's. 

Crawford Art Gallery, this very cool "wiggle room" for drawing and hanging out.

Learning about the game of cricket, at a field near the big park in Cork, Fitzgerald Park.

Luke in Fitzgerald Park in Cork, getting some rare sun!

First thing on the car-agenda, traveled
 to Cobh where we experienced the Titanic (Cobh was the last stop in Europe for the ill-fated ship, Luke and I died on the ship, Katie, Scott, and Alex somehow drew passenger-cards of real people who survived the sinking). More important than the Titanic stop, Cobh was the departure point for millions of Irish seeking better lives, more than 2.5 million people left the city (~1850-1950, of the total 6M Irish that emigrated during those 100 years), many through Heartbreak Pier, where their loved ones said goodbye, anticipating that that “goodbye” would be forever.  We went on to the emigration museum where Scott spent some time at the Ancestry search computer (his parents both have some Irish-ancestry).  Unfortunately, by lunchtime, the port-city looked like a hurricane was about to hit; we forced the kids to try to ride it out but didn’t last past a quick peanut butter sandwich..

At the Cobh Titanic Experience museum. 

With our many cruise-passenger co-visitors, also at the Cobh Titanic Museum. 

At a Cohb open space, fog rolling in! 

And... the fog is in kids.. We didn't stay in Cobh much longer. 

Next car rental day, yes, Killarney National Park!  Location of the Ring of Kerry! Incredible mountainous vistas! We drove the almost 2 hours with some SUPER happy travelers in the backseat (I jest, they are not loving at all the curvaceous roads) and arrived in the excellent jumping off point town (also called Killarney). We made it with time to piggyback onto this cool tour – Bus to the Gap of Dunloe, horse-buggy ride a few miles, walk a few miles, hop on a boat across the Loch Leane – Our kids were not enthusiastic and it was expensive so we skipped it. Scott and I were a bit miffed.. Upon closer inspection, Luke looked a little pale.  Into the pharma Scott went, and out came the positive-Covid test.  Poor guy, he was the first kid to get it in 2022 (last time we came to Europe. Oh Europe and covid).  He was feeling ok though, just a bit tired from the car ride and we carried on to the Gap of Dunloe where we rented a horse and buggy and road to the Gap of Dunloe. Buster was a strong horse but maybe had a few too many miles on him for our bulky group of 5+ the driver.  We enjoyed the driver Cayn’s hearty calls of “C’mon Busta! Wake up Buster!” as we breezed trudged past people pushing strollers, walking, biking, and driving cars (ok, some of those parties passed us, I won’t mention which).  We managed to convince the kids to take a short walk to the Muckross Abbey and made it to a lookout point on the Loch.  And then we got back on the road. Sigh, no hiking but the view at the Gap was very good. Boo, the Ring of Kerry drive was out of the question with the kids’ lack of excitement for car rides and now with Luke covid-positive, Alex and Katie of course were not excited to sit with him.  Luke was really bummed that first night, sad to be a bit “quarantined” in his room (he watched a movie with us, but sat far away, and could hear Katie and Alex giggling) and he was muttering that maybe he would die; I can’t stop myself in those moments, I have to give him snuggles, covid or not.         

In our buggy, Katie looking perturbed! 

More buggy photos! 


At the Gap of Dunloe.

At the Gap, wind taking Katie's hair for a ride.

With our buggy friend Buster the horse and Khan, our driver. 

Thanks for the photo, Katie! At the Loch Leane. 

Oh, poor Luke - Waiting outside while others go into the grocery store to get dinner.

Alas, can’t have totally smooth travels.!
  One silver lining, one-covid positive person means no fights about who gets to sleep alone in a bed each night, that person was Luke.

Third day with the car rental; we made it a short 30-minute drive to Kinsale and Charles Fort – the Fort has a very interesting history.  It was initially built in 1682, named after then-King Charles II. During the Williamite Wars (super important in English and Irish history; the war followed the 1688 Glorious Revolution when a bunch of nobles invited King James’ daughter’s (Mary’s, she was a Protestant) husband, William of Orange to come take the throne from James (a Catholic).  William and Mary bloodlessly took over, but James landed in Ireland and attempted to retake the throne over the next two years.  William and Mary won and this settled the question raised when Henry VIII created the Anglican Church and robustly replaced papal authority in 1534 with the Church of England.  Great Britian was firmly Protestant.  This of course did not settle the same question in Ireland; the conflict that began when Henry VII split from Catholicism in 1534 would have strong tailwinds for 400 years, until Irish independence in 1922 and then for another 70 years until the Good Friday Agreement in 1998 ended The Troubles in Northern Ireland and elsewhere in the UK (this is when history really comes alive for me.. when you go back and then keep going back to almost sort of understand how conflicts began).

I digress!  James’ forces defended Fort Charles, however, when William’s forces laid siege, the fort was overrun in 13 days (turns out it was well-defended from the water but not as much from land).  William’s forces finally won in the Battle of Boyle (incidentally, we learned this Protestants-beat-Catholics Battle is pointedly and hotly celebrated in the Protestant areas of Northern Ireland and Belfast even today, more on all that later).  The was in 1691; we learned the last battle at the Fort was in the 1920s after the Irish war for independence was ended with a treaty and the partition of Northern Ireland – Irish forces opposed to the peace treaty burned the fort to prevent the Irish government’s forces from occupying it. 

At Fort Charles.

More Fort Charles, Luke apparently bird-watching :) 

At Fort Charles, Alex and cannon. 

And we arrived home and Alex tested positive for covid; he moved into Luke’s room and Katie glowered.  She feels they are recklessly breathing at or near her too much.  I get that.

Last day with rental car: we decide to split forces, I take the car and Katie to Blarney Castle and gardens and Scott walks with Luke and Alex to the City Gaol (the old Cork jail that they’ve turned into an attraction).  The Blarney Castle was built around 1200 and rebuilt in the 1500s.. A prime activity is kissing the Blarney Stone which legend says will give the smoocher the gift of gab (the source of the legend is uncertain). Nevertheless, thousands come and kiss it each year including Churchill, Ronald Reagan, and Mick Jagger.  In Gaelic, “blarney” means to flatter and persuade with such humor and wit, that the listener of course comes to see your side of the argument.  We approach the very well-laid out visitor spaces and see that the line up through the castle walls and stairs and up to the Stone is more than an hour – Katie has no interest in kissing stones (yuck, not hygienic) and I sorta think I already have the gift of gab and we’ve both climbed up more than enough castle walls for a long while so we watch some people kiss the stone and move on to the rest of the castle and gardens.  We have just a lovely walk together, enjoying the poison plants garden, the apothecary garden, and make our way to the bee-hives observing area. We watched a fascinating video of the keeper checking the bees and identifying the queen (only marred by a French family who would not quiet their noisy kids).  We stopped for a quick beverage, got chased by bees inside the café from the courtyard (ironic, as we enjoyed observing the hives), called the outing successful and headed home.

At the Blarney Castle.


The Blarney Stone is up this tower.. 

.. and here is someone else (not us) lining up to kiss the Stone.


Katie enjoyed this plant in the poison garden at Blarney Castle.  It stimulates cats and, if humans ingest, causes humans to become quarrelsome. She said, "like you, Mom, you're quarrelsome." I argued the point vociferously. She smiled serenely and said, "See." 

I woke up that night coughing and coughing, had some water and a bunch of cough drops later, and I finally fell back asleep, but not before Scott had gotten up and fled to Katie’s room to let me sleep and try to avoid whatever I had.  We woke up the next day, I felt fine, Katie tested positive for Covid and I was still negative (wrong room, Scotty! - Don't worry about him though [spoiler alert], I am writing this several weeks after the fact and Scott and I avoid Covid, all three kids get it with minimal symptoms and recover. 

We just hung around town that last day in the Republic, all the kids were feeling fine but were not in a mood for more driving, we played frisbee at the park and Alex and Luke played a little soccer pick up with two kids from Ukraine and two Irish kids.

The final night of playing in the park was cathartic.. I stood, having gotten muscled out of the game by the Ukrainian and Irish kids, watching them enjoy their pick up match, and letting go of my disappointment at not having gotten to see the Cliffs of Moher or the Ring of Kerry or the other wild coastlines in Ireland. Rain and cranky-covid kids stymied our pace. Alas, at least we are getting the covid out of the way and then hopefully will be healthy the rest of the way through (no cure I know about though for “cranky” other than…..sleep and bananas!).  

Travel day!  We packed up and said goodbye to our university digs.  After a little stress, our little local car rental company came through – They initially thought it would not be possible for us to return the car before 10am (because of the road work, you see, they cannot get into the office before then!) which would put us on a real late train the Belfast – Dee did not let me down though, she called a co-worker and he picked up the car from me right at the train station parking lot, wow, great service!  Elation washed over me as I handed over those rental car keys to rest that part of my brain that kept me on the left side of the road, and hopped on to the train; saying goodbye to one awesome feature of train stations in Ireland – each one we traveled through had brightly painted upright pianos with signs that said “Play Me”.  Luke plucked out Star Wars, but the pianos were often taken with travelers entertaining the room.

 

Traveler playing one of several pianos we noticed in Irish train stations. Pretty nice thing to put in a public transit station.  



 

              

 

 

 

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